Many West Indians can lay claim to a feeling of belonging to another Caribbean island by virtue of parents who would have immigrated. In my case my father came to Trinidad from Canouan. Going back to this place that I call my second home over the holidays was amazing. In many ways this island and the people there helped shaped the person I am today.
View from the back of the house |
View from the front of the house |
And that was one of our tamer adventures. Indeed when I think back on the times we had, I am amazed that we are all survived childhood. Even some thirty something years later there is still the same excited anticipation of hanging with my cousins who now have children of their own. Seeing our children playing together, continuing childhood traditions is awesome. It is beyond moving to share experiences of my childhood in the spaces that they occurred with my own children.
Beach bar, Mayreau |
I will admit that initially it was upsetting for a child used to purchasing meat from supermakets to see animals being butchered for the table. Today, I am happy to say that my experiences have afforded me a practical and not too romanticized view of food. In those days if you wanted to eat you either grew it or caught and then butchered it. Too bad if you were squeamish about anything you just did not eat until the next meal. This sort of 'old fashioned lifestyle' was unimaginable to many of my friends but I was delighted to be part of these seemingly magical rituals that were once an essential part of daily life. One such ritual that continues today is that of corned fish.
Corned Fish |
Of course today you can pick up salted cod in the supermarket but back when there were no refrigerators or even imported Alaskan cod, you salted and preserved your own fish by adding loads of salt and drying it in the sun. This process is called corning for reasons mentioned in my previous post on corned beef. Corned fish will keep for months and it is not unusual to see salted fish on roof tops or strung out on fences to be preserved.. In Union Island I noticed that my Aunt used sea salt that she had harvested herself from the salt pond. Mostly I was surprised that the Grenadine islands have not yet seen the potential for marketing their salt to the world. Many of the islands have naturally occurring salt ponds, yet the sea salt I buy comes from France - go figure. Upon my return I noticed a 2 ounce container of sea salt for $15.00 US at a local gourmet shop. Hello! Aunty Alice send salt, stat!.
Fisherman cleaning conch for dinner |
Glossy Beach, Canouan |
My husband had a hard time trying to decide which was the best beach. Glossy Beach reigned supreme in his estimation at least until the following day when we took him to another beach where he exclaimed anew, "Now this is the best beach on the island." Hmmm, let's just say that I heard that phrase a lot from him.
Soon enough it was time to leave Canouan and hop across to the neighboring Union Island to spend a short visit with my Aunt.
Big Sand Beach, Union Island |
From Union we made arrangements for a sailing tour to the Tobago Keys. First stop was the private island resort on Palm Island.
Palm Island |
Our next stop was at Salt Whistle Bay on the island of Mayreau.
Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau |
Tired of one beach, well then, walk about ten steps across a narrow strip of land and you'll find yourself on another.
Once in the Tobago Keys, it was a full day of snorkeling on the reefs. Anchored close by was the boat Scaramouche, better known as the Black Pearl in the movie Pirates of The Caribbean.
In the distance is Petit Tabac, the island where Jack Sparrow was stranded with loads of rum.
In the distance is Petit Tabac, the island where Jack Sparrow was stranded with loads of rum.
Petit Tabac, Tobago Keys |
A gloomy goodbye |