Saturday, March 9, 2013

Trinidad Green seasoning



The foundation of cooking meat the Trinidadian way is all about the seasoning. All meat (beef, chicken pork and fish) is marinated in a seasoning mix of crushed herbs, onions, garlic and peppers. This blend of herbs and aromatics is called 'green seasoning'. It is incredibly versatile and is good in soups, stews, rice, and bean dishes. Many Trinidadians whip up a batch of this stuff on a weekly basis. The blend of seasoning is based on personal preference and varies across households. Traditionally some or all of the following ingredients are used: 




 Celery 
There are three kinds of celery that are grown for cooking purposes.
Stalk celery is imported into this country from America and it is grown for its crunchy stalks which can be eaten raw. 

Leaf celery (pictured above) or Chinese celery is grown primarily for its leaves which are used as a herb. The stem is also edible raw but much more pungent than stalk celery. The stalks of leaf celery taste better cooked. This type of celery is a key ingredient in Trinidad green seasoning and both leaf and stalks are used.

Root Celery also called celeriac is grown for its bulbous root. It is not available in Trinidad.





Culantro
The Trinidadian name for culantro (Eryngium foetidum) comes from french settlers to the island during colonial rule. Chardon béni which Trinis pronounce as shadow benny means blessed thistle. Although not the same plant it's appearance is somewhat remniscent of the blessed thistle plant (Cnicus benedictus) that is native to southern France. 

Bhandhania is the other local name for culantro and it comes from the large East Indian descended population. Dhania comes from the Hindi word for coriander seed. It must be noted that culantro is not related to the coriander plant (Coriandrum sativum). Interestingly, both plants have the same smell and taste with culantro being the more intensely flavoured of the two. Use twice as much cilantro if substituting it for chardon béni in your recipe. 

Across the Caribbean it is also known as Chardron benee (Dominica), coulante (Haiti), recao (Puerto Rico) and fit weed Guyana).



Portuguese Thyme

I expect that I might be the last remaining Trinidadian who remembers that this was once called Portuguese thyme, so called because this is used in Garlic Pork (the local version of Carne de Vinagre e Alhos). Garlic Pork is a traditional Portuguese West-Indian Christmas dish.  Over the years Trinidadians started calling this Spanish Thyme which is very confusing because there is another herb that is also called Spanish thyme. 


I remember consulting my grandparents the very first time I made garlic pork. I have fond memories of my 2nd generation Portuguese grandparents guiding me through the process and instructing me that I was to use Portuguese thyme. It is also called by this name in the first locally published cookbook, Sylvia Hunt's cooking: Proud Legacy of our people. Whatever the correct name might be, I will continue calling this herb Portuguese thyme if only for sentimental reasons and remembrances of my grandparents. 


So that there can be no confusion, its botanical name is Lippia micromera and it also goes by the name of False Oregano. In the United States it's called Mexican Oregano. Even thought it smells and tastes very similar to true oregano, the plant is actually more closely related to lemon verbana. The flavour is a little more intense than true oregano so a little goes a long way. 




French Thyme (thymus vulgaris) 


Spanish Thyme (Big Leaf Thyme)

The final variety of thyme that Trinidadians love to throw into this mix is Spanish Thyme (Plectranthus amboinicus). Yet another thyme that is not a thyme but we call it thyme anyway. Yikes!  It's other local name is big leaf thyme because of its broad leaves. I don't often include this one in my green seasoning mix. 


Still confused by the various types of thyme. Here is a photo taken from the blog of my good friend Cynthia and used with her kind permission. This should make it easier for you to identify the different varieties.

Spanish thyme is another herb with an oregano-like flavour. It is even more strongly flavoured than Portuguese thyme and because of the similarities I find it unnecessary to use both at the same time. It can overpower if used too liberally. When I do use it, it's never more than a leaf or two as it has the tendency to darken the seasoning mix and turn dark green to black. I prefer to see a brighter green mix.


In Trinidad no distinction is made between Green onions or scallions and chives. They are all called chives (local pronunciation Sigh-ve ) and are used interchangeable in the making of green seasoning. My preference is for  the slightly more onion flavour of the scallions for my marinade. 



Trinidad pimento peppers 
Trinidad pimento peppers are also known as seasoning peppers. I would have to say that pepper is adored by Trinidadians and is easily the most popular cooking pepper in our country. Unfortunately it is little known outside of the Caribbean or places that have a large West Indian population. The flavour is really impossible to describe. When you cut it it smells like its going to be hot and I suppose it can be said to have the flavour of a hot pepper but without the heat if that makes sense. It is most definitely not a sweet tasting pepper like a bell pepper. Some people will also use scotch bonnet peppers. 

Before I begin, let me assure you that there are no standard amounts for this recipe. I usually judge if it is right by smell not taste. After awhile you will develop a sense of what is right for you. 


Trinidad Green Seasoning
Yeild 9 ( approx 2 cups)

4 bunches leaf celery
2 bundles culantro ( or 4 bunches cilantro)
1 bundle Portuguese thyme - 12 stalks or so ( or substitute with oregano )
2 bundles French thyme
3 bundles of scallions (or chives)
10-12 Trinidad Pimento peppers ( substitute banana peppers)
2 leaves of big leaf thyme (optional)
1 head of garlic ( about 10 cloves)
1/8 - 1/4 cup water or *vinegar  (*optional-  this preserves the seasoning mix if it is to be kept in the fridge longer than a week) 


Method
Wash the herbs and de-seed the pimento peppers.
Rough chop all ingredients and put into a food processor or blender.  Puree the herbs adding a small amount of water, vinegar or lime juice so that mixture can turn easily in the processor. The consistency should be that of a chunky pesto. Some people prefer a more watery blend it's up to you. 

Green seasoning can also be frozen in an ice tray. You pop out a cube or two when needed. If freezing you can omit the vinegar. You will find that over time the colour darkens in the fridge. This is normal and it is perfectly fine. 














35 comments:

  1. Funny... my column in Barbados Today's current edition is on Green Seasoning :)

    Secondly, in Guyana we refer to the Portuguese Thyme as Guyanese Thyme :) It was another wonderful discovery for me a few years ago when I found out as I continue to trace the origins of some of our food.

    Love that b/g which you used for your pics. Is it tile?

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    1. All the different local and regional names drive me crazy:-) I actually took that darn Portuguese thyme plant from my yard to the Herbarium at the University to find out the (latin) botanical name.

      Yep background is tile

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  2. Todas las hierbas me encantan las uso a diario las tengo en mi jardín sobretodo el cilantro,cebollino y el tomillo son usado a diario por su perfume y exquisitez,las fotos están maravillosas,hugs,hugs.

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  3. Love the seasonings and flavors of the Caribbean! We visit often...and have found some new herbs and greens and some familiar, but with unfamiliar names.
    Great informative post!

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    1. Barbara I always try to include botanical names because plant names vary so much from island to island. It's a great source of frustration to me when I want to be sure I have the right ingredient. So next time you visit all of these will be familiar to you:-)

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  4. I love Caribbean food and I learned more about the seasonings in this post than I have all the times I've visited. :)

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  5. What useful information! I've never seen some of these varieties of herbs. And the coriander you have is the one we call sawtooth coriander. Ours is different, with smaller leaves protruding out from the stem like flat leaf parlsey :)

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  6. What a flavorful combination! This green seasoning must add great depth to dishes.

    Cheers,

    Rosa

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  7. well, this has been an education! thanks for the lesson in trinidad cuisine, and the images are lovely! :)

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  8. cool. I am going to have to try this! It looks wonderful

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  9. It looks like a flavorful blend of herbs.

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  10. I've never had chinese celery and this sounds too amazing to pass up...will have to give it a go very soon!!

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    1. Its a lot more pungent than the American stalk variety

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  11. Lovely colors pic. Love herbs on all my meals

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  12. Very informative post! I have never even heard of chinese celery...the only celery I've seen is the traditional American/Canadian one with the crunchy stalk. Thx for sharing!

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  13. The photographs on your blog are simply stunning! Wonderful!
    Crucian Contessa

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    1. Thanks Tanisha. Your conch photo still has me drooling:-)

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  14. Interesting post and lovely photos! I am learning a lot and I love it!

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  15. Love the pretty pictures of these greens :D

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  16. Wow what a lovely spread...love your pics, sply the first one :-)

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  18. I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE fresh green seasoning!!! Your blog is really interesting for me since I'm studying nutrition and dietetics, keep up the fantastic posts :)
    x

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  19. Love the Trinidad seasoning and spice!

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  20. I've told you about ur pictures before (i'm sure i have) but they make ME WANT TO REACH INTO MY LAPTOP, GRAB AND START MUNCHING!!! :-)

    they are so vivid and vibrant!

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    1. Awww Thanks. I am sure I have told you before that you are too kind :-)

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  21. That's informative and a new learning for me. I love fresh herbs and this seasoning sounds fantastic!

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  22. Seriously loved your educational article. I'm always fascinated by the exotic ingredients available in other countries and their methods of using them in traditional cuisine. Wonderful, fresh photos too!

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  23. Miss Wizzy,
    This is sooo darn cool. I bet that blend of herbs is ridiculously good. My boyfriend's good friend here in San Diego is from Trinidad, and I need to share your blog with him.

    PS. I've been a bit swamped lately, so sorry I'm just now getting back to you about the Horchata, but if you email me your address, I will GLADLY mail you some. My pleasure. It doesn't need to be refrigerated, so it will ship well.

    vintagesugarcube@yahoo.com

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    1. Jenny, we Trinis (Trinidadians) are like salt. We are everywhere and in everything;-)Feel free to share the link with your boyfriend's friend. As to your offer of sending me some Horchata that would be awesome and too kind:-)

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  24. I loveeeeeee this green seasoning - flavourful, spicy and herby! Great in lots of things, I can well imagine.

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  25. All of that greenery laid out on the counter is just stunningly beautiful. The hues are so vibrant, and the plants themselves look bursting with life and flavor. I love this post! Thank you for explaining them all in depth.

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  26. And in Bim (Barbados) we call it English thyme lol. We use Scotch bonnett peppers.

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    1. See BC. That's exactly why I prefer the botanical names. All the different regional names can be confusing.

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